Filed under: Editorials | Tags: anna maria negri, bethann hardison, donna haraway, ellen von unwerth, federico ghezzi, franca sozzani, giulio martinelli, kelly moreira, vogue italia
Vogue Italia Luglio 2008 N°695 caused a tremendous outpouring of interest for having devoted its pages entirely to black models. The “all black” issue as it has come to be known went on to be an undeniable smashing commercial success. The jury, however is a little more split over the lasting impact brought about by special issues of this sort. Some even have argued that a dearth of opportunities for regular, more normalized features exist for black models in the same way they do for fairer skinned models. Nevertheless so long as black models aren’t styled like some sort of American Museum of Natural History diorama, then exposure of this variety cannot be wholly detrimental in ways commonly understood by graduate seminars and might actually raise anew this fraught issue. Such is the backdrop for a double feature in Vogue Italia Maggio 2011 that includes Ford’s Kelly Moreira photographed by Ellen von Unwerth. At the beginning of the issue there is a feature called “Tribute to: Black Beauties” that opens on page 65 and does something not in keeping with the magazine’s customs, which is to identify the story’s models by name and agency! This practice is virtually unheard of for the other stories save for the Steven Meisel feature discussed yesterday on this page. In fact, the editorials by Miles Aldridge and Tim Walker carry no such designations. There is scant room on this page to fully tease out the reasons why without hauling out a quotations by Donna Haraway or using dreadful words such as “problematize.” Instead, I will cut to the chase and charitably conclude that seeing Kelly Moreira wearing a Giulio Martinelli-styled opening look comprised of a silk overall by Boss Orange and platform sandals by Casadei is precisely the taste that should whet editor in chief Franca Sozzani‘s appetite for including more black models in print.
Credits include: Publication, Vogue Italia Maggio 2011 N°729; Titles, “Tribute to: Black Beauties”, “Jump and Smile”; Photography, Ellen von Unwerth; Fashion editing, Giulio Martinelli; Hair, Federico Ghezzi at Victoria’s; Makeup, Anna Maria Negri using Intrigue Elizabeth Arden; Manicure, Honey at Exposure NY; Casting direction, Bethann Hardison; Image source, tFS.
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