Filed under: Editorials | Tags: anais mali, anna wintour, azzedine alaïa, charlie welch, elissa santisi, kamo, lisa houghton, raymond meier, vogue
“Last, a brief word about this month’s fashion,” writes Vogue editor in chief Ann Wintour in her editor’s letter from the August 2011 “age issue.” She concludes that fashion is an endeavor teeming with surprise (see also Céline Resort 2012 and Givenchy Resort 2012). The previous three paragraphs of this opening letter, however deal with the aged, specifically the issue’s Sarah Jessica Parker cover story. The fashion that remains in the 229 page issue has value and none more so than an accessories story featuring Ford’s Anais Mali photographed by Raymond Meier. Titled “Mixed Media” the Elissa Santisi-styled story makes exceptional use of bold background colors to accentuate accessories in Lucite, alligator and python, glitter and suede. Making her fifth appearance for Vogue this year Anais opens the story with a Tod’s pochette bag slung over her left shoulder and wearing an alligator-and-python belt and clothing by The Row. Although there is nary an Azzedine Alaïa snakeskin handbag to be found, the story’s accessories on the balance are used to maximum effect. For example, take Anais’s final look, which is comprised of an amber python purse that absolutely pops against the green python dress and T-strap platform sandals, all by Gucci. Exceptionally blown-out hair by Kamo completes this trip down retro lane, which as ever Anais Mali takes in stride in both defiance of the issue’s theme of age and of course restrictions of the two-dimensional page.
Credits include: Publication, Vogue August 2011; Title, “Mixed Media”; Photography, Raymond Meier; Fashion editing, Elissa Santisi; Hair, Kamo for Mod’s Hair; Makeup, Lisa Houghton for Yves Saint Laurent at Jed Root, Inc.; Prop styling, Charlie Welch for Jed Root, Inc.
Filed under: Fall 2011 Couture | Tags: anais mali, caoshu, carmen dell'orefice, fall 2011 couture, kate king, paris, stéphane rolland
Ford’s Anais Mali and Kate King featured for the Stéphane Rolland fall 2011 couture collection by Stéphane Rolland on Tuesday at the Théâtre National de Chaillot in Paris.
Reflective of his A/W 2011-2012 couture collection is Rolland’s inspiration from Caoshu, or 草书, a Chinese ancestral calligraphy. The writing style derivative is apparent of looks that embody both piquant structure and liquidity. Where history and culture play paramount roles in contributing to the conception of a collection, nothing holds reign like that of a timeless muse. Who other than the iconic Carmen Dell’Orefice to inspire a couture collection infused with elegantly striking pieces that create such graceful silhouettes.
“What inspired this collection was an eternal grace, an alluring attitude, a formidable presence, that of the great Carmen Dell’Orefice. As a muse, she is statuesque and appears as a long and mysterious figure, just like a stroke of black ink topped with a white cloud.” Stéphane Rolland
Please visit Vogue.co.uk to see the entire Stéphane Rolland fall 2011 couture collection.
Filed under: Resort 2012 | Tags: anais mali, diane von furstenberg, ming xi, paula klimczak, ranya mordanova, resort 2012
Ford’s Paula Klimczak, Anais Mali, Ming Xi, and Ranya Mordanova featured in the presentation of the Diane von Furstenberg resort 2012 collection by Diane von Furstenberg Monday in New York.
Please visit Vogue.com to read a review and see the entire Diane von Furstenberg resort 2012 collection.
Filed under: Editorials | Tags: anais mali, hedonism, holly shackleton, i-d magazine, mathias van hooff, richard bush, shon, sigrid agren, sophie hirtzel, veronique didry
As fashion magazine issue themes go, hedonism is more than a touch superfluous. Luxury entreaties of every stripe from designer denim to drink greet readers at the turn of nearly every page. If that isn’t an explicit come-hither invitation to indulge wherever and whenever a two-inch mirror in a club toilet type opportunity presents itself, then I don’t know what is. Still, though even the most obvious themes including, yes, hedonism warrant added emphasis as is the case with the i-D Magazine Summer 2011 “Hedonist Issue.” Excess comes gift wrapped in a luscious ten-page, mostly black & white story featuring Ford’s Sigrid Agren and Anais Mali by photographer Richard Bush. Titled “Plinkplonk,” an alliterative variation on the British slang expression for cheap wine, this Veronique Didry-styled story uncorks with Anais wearing a varsity jacket by The Kooples, Moschino T-shirt, and vintage ring. Sigrid raises a plastic cup to the occasion in the second shot by wearing a Comme des Garçons white leather jacket and a Katharine Hamnett T-shirt and is joined by Anais who wears a Y-3 top and vintage jacket. Hair styling by Shon and makeup by Mathias van Hooff accentuate the downtown vibe that courses throughout the story and ultimately brings full circle this theme of hedonism cosigned by editor Holly Shackleton. Tautological or not, Shackleton is on point when she high-fives in her editor note that “there’s nothing more pleasurable than a summer devoted to pleasure.” So long as this pleasurable pleasure involves Sigrid Agren and Anais Mali, then the pleasure is most certainly ours!
Credits include: i-D Magazine 313 Summer 2011; Title, “Plinkplonk”; Photography, Richard Bush; Styling, Veronique Didry; Hair, Shon at Julian Watson Agency; Makeup, Mathias van Hooff at MFA using Bobbi Brown; Photography assistance, Cleon Daniel, Christian Bragg; Styling assistance, Francesca Parise; Production, Sophie Hirtzel; Casting, Barbara Nicoli, Leila Ananna; Image source, Trouble Management.
Filed under: Editorials | Tags: ana-maria, anais mali, brana wolf, daniel jackson, esther langham, harper's bazaar, ian savage, petros petrohilos, rose cordero
For this week’s closing story I would like to turn to the publishing world of Hearst. Some 340 pages into Harper’s Bazaar March 2011 there is a colorful editorial by photographer Daniel Jackson and fashion editor Brana Wolf that features Ford’s Anais Mali and Rose Cordero. Titled “What’s Bright Now” this otherwise routine spring 2011 editorial is made to pop by opening with Anais who wears a Calvin Klein Collection dress, Patricia Underwood hat, and Prada shoes (yes, those again). Rose adds an extra gloss to the story with a sweater, pants, hat, and clutch by Marc Jacobs. Without any real subtext to be explored other than the very evident awesomeness of Anais Mali and Rose Cordero, I would like to call full time on this blog entry.
Credits include: Publication, Harper’s Bazaar March 2011; Title, “What’s Bright Now”; Photography, Daniel Jackson; Fashion editor, Brana Wolf; Hair, Esther Langham; Makeup, Petros Petrohilos for Nars; Manicure, Ana-Maria; Prop styling, Ian Savage for W.A.R.S.
Filed under: Editorials | Tags: anais mali, andrew richardson, britney spears, karmen pedaru, linda cantello, mario testino, rudi lewis, singleton, v magazine, v70
Previously I have said that London is New York Fashion Week‘s first casualty. In actuality there are dozens of casualties, many of whom hold the dubious honor of being constituents of Magazine Mountain. Not least of those esteemed publications includes V, which tends to hit newsstands right around the same time the show seasons begin and thus rather unfairly slip from this page’s grasp. It most recently happened in January during the menswear shows. At the time I rather naïvely brought the gorgeous oversized bimonthly to Milano with every good intention of featuring it, but failed miserably to ever do so. Apologies, Mr. V. Tonight, however I want to put things right by sharing this V70 Spring 2011 story (the Ford bits anyway) by Mario Testino featuring amongst others Ford’s Karmen Pedaru and Anais Mali. Titled “Glam Slam” the story runs the models through the styling paces of Andrew Richardson to achieve a Studio 54 meets S/S 11 flair replete with “acid colors [and] electric prints.” To that end, Karmen’s first look, a dress by Stella McCartney and heels by Pierre Hardy, ignites against a heavily saturated sea of yellows. Blown out hair by Rudi Lewis in that shot ensures there is no mistake about the disco-dominated decade being referenced. A couple pages later Anais grooves in a look comprised of a top, skirt, and flower belt by Marc Jacobs. Requisite white lace by Dolce & Gabbana for Anais’s second look provides a softer, after hours look perfect for any Tuesday morning after a night of fevered dancing. All told, “Glam Slam” is a sparkling story that features exceptional talent photographed by a master, which is just what you would expect from V.
Now that I’ve finally mentioned V70, thereby reversing its casualty status, I would also like to encourage you to buy the issue. Its cover is unmistakable — it’s Britney, bitch!
Credits include: Publication, V70 Spring 2011; Title, “Glam Slam”; Photography, Mario Testino; Styling, Andrew Richardson; Hair, Rudi Lewis at Management Artists for Bumble and bumble; Makeup, Linda Cantello at Joe Management for Giorgio Armani Cosmetics; Manicure, Singleton at Art Department; Photography assistance, Ivan Shaw, Alex Franco, Benjamin Tietge, Sam Johnson; Styling assistance, Connie Berg, Anna Stokland; Hair assistance, Allen Wood, Albert Vasquez, Wren Grondzik; Makeup assistance, Tracy Alfajora at Joe Management; Set and prop styling, Sebastian Sergeant; Catering, Better Being and Noz Catering; Location, Canoe Studios, New York; Retouching, R&D.
Filed under: Fashion Week F/W 11 | Tags: alexandra tretter, anais mali, andie arthur, crystal renn, daiane conterato, delfine bafort, emily senko, erjona ala, hanne gaby odiele, hannelore knuts, janice alida, julia saner, karmen pedaru, katsia zingarevich, lydia willemina collins, ming xi, paris, sigrid agren, tayane leão, valerija kelava
Before I can truly call full time on the F/W 11 show season I must first push this Paris review out the door. New York Fashion Week felt like a lark after the way Milano Moda Donna made me (not to mention the models!) feel. There is something about cramming all those Milano shows into what are essentially four days rather than the six on the calendar that is downright brutal. Paris is an entirely different animal and accordingly spreads the shows over a leisurely eight days, which allowed Sigrid Agren (25) and Karmen Pedaru (21) to break that all important twenty show benchmark. For two models who didn’t even walk in London they featured in sixty-four (64) and fifty-three (53) shows respectively.
Alana Zimmer featured in seventeen (17) shows in Paris and a total fifty-seven (57) for the season once her eight (8) London shows are added including two openings for Jaeger London and Nicole Fahri. Julia Saner featured in sixteen (16) shows in Paris, forty-eight (48) overall, and in the French capital opened Paul & Joe, and closed another in Christian Dior where she supplied arguably one of the most enduring images of the season by blowing a kiss to the audience. Hanne Gaby Odiele featured in fourteen (14) Paris shows, of which she opened Cacharel and closed Akris to bring her season total to forty-seven (47). Daiane Conterato featured in twelve (12) Paris shows and thirty-six (36) overall, where during the final week she also opened Haider Ackermann and opened and closed Ann Demeulemeester.
All told Paris proved to be an incredible eight days as did the entire show season for our girls. I now invite you to geek out on the below show lists. As ever any errors, omissions, mistakes are strictly my own and will be corrected if brought to my attention in the below comments section. Au revoir, Paris, see you in another six months.
Paris Prêt à Porter Automne-Hiver 2011-2012 Review
Alana Zimmer: Dries Van Noten, Rochas, Rue du Mail, Zac Posen, Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Pedro Laurenço, Haider Ackermann, Jean Paul Gaultier, Akris, Hermès, Emanuel Ungaro, Paul & Joe, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton
Alexandra Tretter: Anne Valérie Hash, Undercover, Tsumori Chisato
Anais Mali: Mugler, Nina Ricci, Christian Dior, Loewe, Stella McCartney, Emanuel Ungaro, Chloé
Andie Arthur: Miu Miu
Crystal Renn: Zac Posen
Daiane Conterato: Damir Doma, Dries Van Noten, Rochas, Undercover, Ann Demeulemeester (O, C), Yohji Yamamoto, Haider Ackermann (O), Hermès, Kenzo, Vanessa Bruno, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Miu Miu
Delfine Bafort: Balenciaga, Maison Martin Margiela, Haider Ackermann
Emily Senko: Guy Laroche, Undercover, Ann Demeulemeester, Lanvin, Pedro Laurenço, Andrew Gn, Vanessa Bruno
Erjona Ala: Balenciaga
Hanne Gaby Odiele: Dries Van Noten, Rue du Mail, Rick Owens, Nina Ricci, Pedro Laurenço, Cacharel (O), Akris (C), Kenzo, Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli, Paul & Joe, Chanel, Valentino, Miu Miu
Hannelore Knuts: Jean Paul Gaultier
Janice Alida: Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Barbara Bui, Vivienne Westwood, Andrew Gn, Vanessa Bruno, Moncler Gamme Rouge
Julia Saner: Rochas, Balmain, Barbara Bui, Nina Ricci, Christian Dior (C), Lanvin, Jean Paul Gaultier, Akris, Costume National, Giambattista Valli, Vanessa Bruno, Paul & Joe (O), Chanel, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Elie Saab
Karmen Pedaru: Hakaan, Dries Van Noten, Rue du Mail, Balenciaga, Balmain (O), Rick Owens, Nina Ricci, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Pedro Laurenço (C), Haider Ackermann, Viktor & Rolf, Céline, Hermès, Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Chloé, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton
Kate Kosushkina: Nicolas Andreas Taralis, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Undercover, Barbara Bui, Nina Ricci, Andrew Gn, Costume National, Vanessa Bruno, Léonard, Comme Des Garçons, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Arzu Kaprol
Katsia Zingarevich: Stella McCartney, Gareth Pugh
Lydia Willemina Collins: Givenchy (exclusive)
Ming Xi: Hakaan, Guy Laroche, Rochas, Mugler, Zac Posen, Rick Owens, Roland Mouret, Lanvin, Loewe, Costume National, Emanuel Ungaro, Schiatzy Chen, Louis Vuitton, Elie Saab
Sigrid Agren: Hakaan, Dries Van Noten, Rue du Mail, Balmain, Rick Owens, Nina Ricci, Roland Mouret, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Pedro Laurenço, Haider Ackermann, Viktor & Rolf, Cacharel, Loewe, Hermès, Kenzo, Stella McCartney, Chloé, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Elie Saab
Tayane Leão: Guy Laroche, Yohji Yamamoto, Cacharel, Hermès, Givenchy, Giambattista Valli, Moncler Gamme Rouge
Valerija Kelava: Dries Van Noten, Rue du Mail, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Viktor & Rolf, Cacharel (C), Céline, Hermès, Givenchy, Chloé, Alexander McQueen, Miu Miu
O: Open; C: Close